Learn to Finish a Kimono...

These are fun to finish. Hang them on a kimono stand, with a chopstick, or mount the finished kimono onto a pillow by topstitching into place.



These instructions are copyright 2008 Summer Louise Truswell. You may print one copy for your own personal use or to make items as gifts. If you'd like to reprint in a newsletter please contact me for a print-ready layout.

Materials Needed:
· Stitched needlework kimono
· Clear plastic bag (such as Ziploc)
· Backing material
· Lining material
· Fast 2 Fuse Double-Sided Heavy-Weight Fusible Interfacing
· Twisted cording for trim
· Tassels, if desired
· Sewing thread
· Scissors

Directions:

1. Lay the plastic bag over the kimono design. Use a permanent marker (such as Sharpie) to trace the kimono outline directly over the stitching.



2. Cut out the plastic template. Place the plastic over the Fast 2 Fuse Interfacing and trace again on the interfacing. Cut out the fusible interfacing, cutting along the inside lines of the marker lines. Check to make sure that the interfacing fits just inside the kimono design.



3. Cut a piece of backing fabric and a piece of lining fabric. Follow the manufacturer's directions to fuse the two layers together with the heavy-weight lining inside.



4. Trim the stitched piece and the backing piece so there is approximately a 3/4" fabric margin around the design.



5. The edges of the canvas are not trimmed all at once. The canvas, if overworked, would unravel all the way to the stitching. The interior corners will need to be notched in to 2 canvas threads from the design but this should be done one corner at a time as the stitching approaches that area.

Notch the corner under one of the sleeves.



6. Fold the raw edges of the canvas towards the back, fingerpressing into place. Fold the raw edges of the silk towards the back. Place the two pieces together, right sides outward, and use matching sewing thread to stitch the pieces together.

As the stitching approaches the corners, fold the canvas inwards and stitch around the corners.

When you approach an inward corner, clip both the canvas and the background fabric to allow the fabric to fold inwards smoothly.

Stitch around the entire perimeter of the design. If the piece is to be hung on a dowel or chopstick remember to leave unstitched openings at the top of each sleeve as well as a small hole in the corner to insert the twisted cording.



7. To attach the twisted cording, begin stitching again in the corner below the sleeve. Insert one knotted end into the small opening underneath the sleeve. Using matching thread, overcast whipstitch the twisted cording to the edge of the kimono. Manipulate the twist of the cording so that the thread lays down in the valley of the twisted cording; it should be almost invisible.

Continue to sew the twisted cording around the perimeter of the design.

Knot off the extra cording, trim the length, and insert the knot into the hold behind the beginning of the cording. Sew the hole closed.



Admire your finished Kimono!

Egg finishing...

This hand-painted canvas from Associated Talents is finished into a shaped Easter Egg. This sweet little egg is finished with a periwinkle ultra suede backing and is trimmed with woven grosgrain ribbon. The bow on top is made from polka-dot ribbons, lace, and pearls.

Pillow finished...

From this photograph I can see I will never again photograph on a dark background. Whoops! This is a great pillow - the textured background of the piece is echoed in the same-color-yellow/tan chenille fabric. There is twisted cording trim, green velveteen fabric frame, the chenille fabric frame, then a beautiful brush trim that matches the twisted cording and the leaves in the design. Design by Ewe and I.

Bags finished...

I finished two bags this last week. The Elizabeth Turner bag, shown above, is finished with a fine wale cordoroy and has lots of pockets and a removable strap. Very fun colors!

The second bag was actually a rework that my client had had finished by another finisher a while ago - the leather hadn't been interfaced so I took the bag apart, added interfacing so it stands up on its own and doesn't flop over, cleaned up all the loose threads, and then fixed the crooked seams on the lining. Therefore no picture because I'm not the real finisher on that one.

Love Stand-Up...

This is just too cute. I "LOVE" it. :)

Design by Raymond Crawford. The lady who stitched this always does beautiful stitching. (1, 2, 3, for some examples)

This is finished as a hard stand-up box. Each panel is laced over acid-free matboard (I use the sueded kind so it isn't paper-y sounding) and then they are stitched together. The wooden feet on the bottom are hand-painted with two shades of green and pink polka dots. The bow is lots of fun ribbons in pink, lime green, and white. Very fun!

Easel Finishing...

This stand-up design is finished into an easel. It is finished with matching blue silk dupioni and accented with twisted cording from threads leftover from the design.

Needlepoint Bag Finishing...

This cute dog canvas is finished as a tote bag. One can never have too many bags!

The design is framed in an orange linen and blue microfiber. It is lined in the orange linen. The bag is accented with simple topstitching - "no frou frou" was requested. ;-)

The bottom of the bag is pinch-pleated to allow it to hold a bit more.

Wreath Finishing...

This cross-stitch design is finished as a circular wreath. The back is flat and the front is padded. It is finished with green velvet and green twisted cording.

Stitched *and* Finished...

This is my stocking that I finally stitched this year. It was a Dimensions Kit. I did add a bit of blending filament for fun. :-)






I worked on it through the year and finished it in December 2008.

More Christmas stockings...

These are all full sized. They are backed with velvet and lined with satin fabric. The tassels are made from leftover stitching threads. Each is trimmed in three-color custom twisted cording.

Ornaments finished...

More lovely ornaments to ship out tomorrow...

This is a gift box from Kathy Schenkel. The red ribbon and heart came with the design. I curled that ribbon and then added more colors to make a really poofy box on the top of the cube. It is lined with acid free foam core for firm sides.



This bride and groom set are finished as padded ornaments. They have complementary beaded edges and are trimmed with a fancy beaded hanger. The hanger between them is wired so it helps keep them apart while displayed.



This boat ornament is finished with a requested thicker cording in extra threads left over from the design. The tassel at the bottom has a wood bead to keep the ball round and the boat buttons were beaded into the skirt of the tassel. It is backed in blue velveteen fabric.

Gift tag ornament...

This cute ornament tag is finished with a hard back and padded front, and trimmed in two colors of floss and white pearl blended with metallic.

The grommet in the corner was added after finishing. A grommet that would have went all the way through the layers would have been too wide in diameter, so I used two grommets, blue on the front and red on the back to match the velvet. Very fun!

Miniature Christmas Stockings...

These miniature stockings are just so cute. Here are a pair of soft booties, backed in pale blue ultrasuede and lined in blue satin. The twisted cording is in two shades of blue.



Next this football stocking is backed with black velveteen and lined in a striking red silk dupioni. The twisted cording is made of red cotton and gold metallic.



Mr. Crabs now has his own home! This miniature stocking has three colors in the floss that match the fun little Christmas bulbs. I love all the found attachments.

Miniature Bargello Stockings...

These four miniature Bargello stockings are finished with a blue velveteen fabric and dupioni lining. Custom twisted cording in two shades of blue and one shade of white finish the edge, while the gold ribbon matches the little gold stars. Very fun and the perfect size for a ring, bracelet, necklace and a pair of earrings. ;-)

Christmas stockings finished...

Every year I lots of Christmas stockings, and this year is now exception. Dark red velvet is so lovely. It is both traditional and striking at the same time.

These three stockings are all finished with self-welted cording on the sides and twisted cording around the top and for the hanger. Very fun!

Pat Mazu Miniature Stocking finished...

I just did the finishing on this little miniature stocking. It is backed in a textured velvet and lined in red silk dupioni. The twisted cording is made from white, two shades of red, and a gold metallic. Very fun! Design by Pat Mazu and is in the ANG Chapter Project Booklet.

Pat Mazu Miniature Stocking...

Yes, another one. :)

This one is backed in grey ultrasuede fabric and lined in purple silk dupioni.

Frame Weight Finishing...

This square design was finished into a frame weight. It could also be used as a pin cushion. The weight has a 1" side like a box cushion. Red velveteen was requested and it matches the red tassel in the design. Custom twisted cording accents to top edge in colors that match the background and the velveteen.

Learn to Finish a Miniature Christmas Stocking

Earlier this year I started using a different technique for finishing miniature Christmas Stockings. I needed a technique with less hand sewing so here is the result. I taught this at my guild last month so the verbal instructions have been tested, too.

These instructions are copyright 2008 Summer Louise Truswell. You may print one copy for your own personal use or to make items as gifts. If you'd like to reprint in a newsletter please contact me for a print-ready layout.




Early Christmas morning, we would sneak down the stairs and into the family room, trying to slip past Mom’s sharp hearing. Of course, our army of feet (six children!) would wake our parents, and they would usually enter the room moments after we had found the stockings. Each stocking had been lovingly sewn with our names, so it was very clear which stocking belonged to each child. We even had a stocking for the family pet, although it was a miniature size.

These instructions and photographs are for a miniature stocking. They will work for a large stocking as well. The stocking is lined. I highly recommend lining your stocking, as it makes it sturdier, in addition to keeping the needlework cleaner. You can skip the lining step, if desired. The size of the stocking is dependent on your finished needlework piece and you will need to purchase your backing and lining fabric based on that.

Materials Needed:
· Stitched needlework piece to be made into stocking
· Backing material
· Lining material
· Twisted cording for trim
· Tassel, if desired
· Sewing thread
· Scissors

Directions:
Wash and block your needlework piece, if desired.

Layer the fabrics in the following order: two layers of lining fabric with right sides facing, backing fabric with right side up, needlework piece with right side down facing backing fabric. Cut all four pieces of fabric, leaving generous margins.



Lay the front of the stocking on a lining piece with right sides together. Sew a seam along the top edge of the stocking. Repeat with the backing fabric and the second piece of lining fabric.
Fold the lining back from the stocking and finger press in place.



Lay the front of the stocking and the back of the stocking together with right sides facing. Make sure that the top edges of the stocking are perfectly matched. If desired you may pin each side. You will be skipping two-three stitches there to allow for later insertion of the twisted cording.

The turning of the stocking will be done through a hole in the lining. Begin at the bottom of the lining fabric and sew the back and front of the stocking together by traveling around almost the entire perimeter of the stocking and lining. Remember to skip two-three stitches where the lining meets the backing and stocking. Finish your seam with at least three inches for turning.

Use a pair of sharp scissors to trim the seam by clipping corners grading the curves slightly. Don’t get too close as the canvas will unravel a little bit.



Turn the stocking right sides out. If needed, reach in with the eraser end of a pencil to push out the sewn edges of the stocking. From the outside finger press the seam down and gently shape into place.

Fold the raw edges of the lining fabric back into the lining and finger press in place. Use matching sewing thread to sew the seam closed. I use a narrow zigzag with a sewing machine.



Push the lining fabric down into the stocking.



Starting on the toe side, insert one end of the twisted cording into the space with missed stitches at the top of the stocking. Use matching sewing thread to carefully sew the twisted cording to the stocking. The sewing thread should sit down in the bumps between the different twists of cord. Sew the cording down around the toe of the stocking and back up to the top. Travel around the cuff of the stocking and back to the back. Loop up the excess cording to make a hanger. If you wish to add a tassel then loop it over the twisted cording hanger at this point. Insert the other end of the twisted cording into the space and sew closed.



Admire your finished miniature Christmas stocking!

Velveteen Pillow...

This is a very traditional design with traditional finishing. A basic, beautiful needlepoint design is worked almost entirely in basketweave. What makes it special is the border is worked in a large specialty stitch that adds texture and finish to the design.

The corners of the design are were not square, which meant the design could be finished as an octogon shape, perhaps with a gusset on the side. However, that would involve more labor and a custom shaped insert. Since the goal was to stay within the budget, I added insets of velveteen into each corner before finishing with a fabric frame with mitered corners. This adds a bit of detailing to the corner and also allows it to be finished as a square to staying within the budget.

The edges of the pillow are finished with self-welted cording. A cotton gimp cord is covered with fabric, cut on the bias (or diagonal). Cutting on the bias allows for the fabric to stretch so it doesn't pucker on the corners where it is turned. However, it ends up that you need more fabric (as it's cut on the diagonal) so self-welting and purchased twisted cording end up costing almost the same amount.

A lovely finish. :)

Finishing: Pillows with frame and without

Should you use a fabric-frame when finishing your pillow?

Adding a fabric frame to a pillow simply means that the needlepoint has strips of fabric sewn to the side. The edges of the fabric can be mitered (so they point out from the corner) or sewn straight (they are straight with the edges). This helps the design stand out from any edge treatment and also helps anchor a particular color in the design. One, two, or multiple fabric frames can be used to "build out" the design. The pillow is then backed as normal.

Finishing a pillow without a fabric frame makes the design stand on it's own. If the design is large enough to be it's own cushion this will work. You also need areas where your eye can rest (the blue triangles in this case).

I finished both these pillows this weekend. See more finished pillows in my pillow albums.

Plaid Pillow

This rectangular needlepoint design was finished with plaid fabric in a mitered fabric-framed front. The twisted cording matches the fabric and the design. Design by Ewe & I.

Pillow finished 10-02-08.